Offered here is an exceptionally rare and remarkably original Rolex Oyster Army Chronometer reference 3139, dating to 1941. Produced during the Second World War, this reference is among the most distinctive early Rolex Oyster models, featuring an elegant stepped case with beautifully sculpted lugs and proportions unlike later Oyster designs. Its unique architecture gives the watch a refined appearance while preserving the robust waterproof construction that made the Rolex Oyster famous.

What immediately sets this example apart is its stunning original glossy black gilt dial. Exceptionally well preserved, the dial retains a deep, glossy finish with crisp gilt printing and beautifully applied rhodium Arabic numerals and hour markers. All of the original luminous material remains present and intact, an increasingly rare feature for a watch that is now more than 80 years old. The original gilt hands are perfectly matched to the dial, while the original white center seconds hand is particularly noteworthy. This style of white seconds hand is typically found only on black gilt dial examples and is one of the defining characteristics sought after by knowledgeable collectors.

Another fascinating feature is the presence of the double Swiss designation at the bottom of the dial. Alongside the traditional “Swiss Made” signature, the dial also bears “Fab. Suisse,” indicating production for a specific export market. This uncommon detail is rarely encountered and adds another layer of collectability to an already scarce reference.

The stainless steel Oyster case remains in outstanding, honest condition and, in my opinion, has never been polished. The original factory finishing is still clearly visible, preserving the sharp lines and beautiful contours of this unusual case design. The original Rolex Oyster crown and original acrylic crystal are both present, further reinforcing the remarkable originality of the watch. The serial and reference numbers remain crisp and fully visible.

The screw-down case back carries an original military engraving, providing a fascinating historical connection and adding to the individuality of the watch. Rather than detracting from its appeal, the engraving tells part of the watch’s story and reflects its remarkable journey over the past eight decades.

The watch is fitted with what we strongly believe to be its original Rolex leather strap, accompanied by the original Rolex buckle. This conclusion is supported by examples illustrated in the Rolex Bubbleback: The World’s First Automatic Wristwatch reference book, where identical straps and buckles are documented on period Rolex watches. Finding an early 1940s Rolex still accompanied by its original strap and buckle is extraordinarily uncommon.

Completing this exceptional offering is its original vintage Rolex presentation box, a feature that is almost never encountered with Rolex watches from this period. The survival of the box alongside such an untouched watch elevates this example into museum-quality territory.

The Rolex Oyster was already internationally recognized by the early 1940s as one of the world’s most advanced waterproof wristwatches. Chronometer-certified examples such as the reference 3139 represented the highest level of precision and craftsmanship Rolex could offer at the time. Produced in very limited numbers and seldom appearing on the market today, the reference 3139 remains one of the most elusive early Oyster Chronometers.

With its untouched case, original crown, original crystal, extraordinary glossy black gilt dial, intact original luminous material, original white center seconds hand, rare double Swiss export markings, military-engraved case back, believed original Rolex strap and buckle, and original Rolex presentation box, this is an exceptional collector’s example. Watches of this originality and historical significance rarely become available and represent a unique opportunity to acquire one of Rolex’s finest and most elusive pre-1950 Oyster Chronometers.

Please Note (Especially for New Collectors)

Before placing your order, please remember that most of our watches are authentic vintage timepieces from the 1920s–1990s. Although every watch is carefully serviced, we preserve as many original movement components as possible to maintain its authenticity. Because of this, vintage mechanical watches will not keep time as precisely as modern watches, and small daily time variations are completely normal.

If your priority is perfect timekeeping, we recommend purchasing a modern watch instead. Vintage watches are meant to be appreciated for their history, craftsmanship, originality, and character. not absolute accuracy.